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When my friend suggested the Sylvia Beach Hotel in Newport, Oregon (named after the founder of the famous Parisian bookstore, Shakespeare & Co.), I was skeptical. “It’s a hotel for book lovers,” she said with cheer. “Um, OK.” “Yeah, there are cats and books in every room and board games and a group dinner.” “OK, I know I have a birthday coming up but I’m not THAT much older.”
But with all my skepticism it was the best place we stayed on this whole trip, apart from the Sheraton in Vancouver of course. We’ve stayed in a real log cabin in the Cascades, a quaint B&B near Mt. Shasta, and an old town hotel in Arcata, California, but the Sylvia was the only one I really enjoyed.
Made a special side trip to the sight where all the magic began: the first Starbucks store ever.
When it first opened in Pikes Place Market in 1971, they only sold coffee beans. But thanks to Howard Schultz, who joined the company in the ’80s and who was inspired by the cafes of Europe, they started selling customized coffee drinks.
Pikes Place Starbucks displays the original company logo — a bare-breasted siren which looks lifted from an antique wood block carving.
The coffee drink prices were cheaper, with my usual grande iced caramel macchiato costing 60 cents less. Unfortunately, tastewise, the drink wasn’t remarkable. Not as much syrup and the coffee was kinda weak. Hm.
For our last night in Vancouver, we decided to hit Doolin’s Irish Pub. Within stumbling distance of our hotel, we thought it safe to down their 20-ounce pints so that’s what we did…a couple of them…and of course a shot of whiskey. Since they offer 16 “world-class” beers, it wasn’t hard to pick a good beer. My fave was Sleeman’s Honey Brown Ale — smooth, tasty and not too light. Domestic drafts are $6.25 and imports are $7.25 — pretty expensive but apparently they do the best pours in Vancouver with just the right amount of head and settle.
Regarded as the city’s most authentic Irish pub, Doolin’s reminded me of Finn McCool’s in Santa Monica with its dark wood interior, Irish memorabilia and kickback atmosphere.
My first night in Vancouver, I had to check out the nightlife. Unfortunately, since it was a Monday night that limited our options. At the last minute, I came up with the Crush Champagne Lounge which is just about three blocks from our hotel.
10Best.com says:
A seductive sleekness distinguishes this lounge, which strikes that appropriate balance between chic and soothing. Dozens of champagnes give truth to the place’s name, and they’re joined by a fantastic wine list and a menu of spirits and cocktails too. Music…finds much favor with the 30-something clientele, who dance, relax, and groove to the rhythms of occasional live performers.
First impression of Mount Shasta? A gorgeous and humbling site to behold. It’s no wonder that the small town of Mt. Shasta seems to be filled with yoga schools and organic grocery stores. You feel in awe of nature with that big mountain looming overhead.
Even in June with 90-degree weather, the peak, the second highest one in the Cascade Range, was still dressed in snow. We hiked a little at its base in Bunny Flat (elevation 6,860 feet) wearing tank tops, jeans and cheapie hiking boots, feeling really silly as better-equipped hikers in snowpants who wielded hiking poles trudged past us.
Since we weren’t allowed to hike to 10,000 feet without a permit, not that we were gonna, we stopped at the treeline before the mountain grade got steep. Just as well since we didn’t have the waterproof boots or even the balance to move across the snow without slipsliding all over the place. I felt like a drunk person stumbling home after a long night at the bar, or rather flashbacked to last Saturday night.
I would have liked to explore the hiking trails without all the snow. As it was, hiking with soggy socks is not fun. So if you ever have a hankering for serious hiking, head north to Shasta between June and September and make sure to pack smart.
605 miles from L.A.
Hey all,
Currently on the road to Vancouver. Yesterday was the start of the trip: L.A to Mt. Shasta. A grueling drive only because of the heat, which got up to 110 degrees Fahrenheit up around Redding. Anyhoo, today we’re on our way to lovely Eugene.
Right now I’m blogging from The Beanery (Oregon’s original coffeehouse for what it’s worth) in Ashland, home of the Shakespeare Festival. They make a pretty good Java Trio Freeze ($3.50) which is essentially like a Frappucino at Starbucks. It’s a lot for your money, not that any of you would schlep all the way to Ashland for one. The coffee menu itself is a confusing mix of Cafe Borgia, Chocolate Caramel Truffle and Mud Slide. The fact that there aren’t any pictures or descriptions of said caffeine concoctions doesn’t do anything to motivate purchase. But fortunately, the baristas are very helpful and friendly, answering any questions.
The coffeehouse crowd seems to be a mixed crew of grimy men with dirt-tinted wife beaters and inked hippy chicks filling out Sudoku puzzles in the Oregonian with flower pens.
The Beanery’s a nice stop-off on the long road to Portland, if that’s where you’re heading. Otherwise there’s, of course, a Starbucks down the street to suit your mainstream leanings.Â
Photo by Blake PellenbergÂ
I have found a new addiction and the dealer is Zankou Chicken. For years my friend Bernadette would tell me about it. Actually, damn her, she only mentioned it in passing. Never really selling it to me so I thought that it was just like Koo Koo Roo or something.
Only trying to find something different to do for lunch did I decide on venturing over to the scary-busy intersection of Sepulveda and Santa Monica (which always seems to be under construction). I tried to cheat the lunch rush by ordering over the phone. But the gruff lady on the line said that they don’t take orders for anything less than $100 and that they were fast anyway. Preposterous!
But sure enough when I got there, no sooner had I placed and paid for my order when they called my number. Damn, they ARE fast!
